Har Ki Doon – Drifting Journeys

Har ki Doon Hues: A Summer Adventure in Garhwal’s Tranquil Valleys

Introduction to Har ki Doon
The Route Unveiled
Embracing Pahadi Culture
How to plan you trek
What to carry
Seasonal Considerations
Exploring more
Reflecting on Har ki Doon

Introduction to Har ki Doon

The Har ki Doon trek is a captivating journey through the picturesque valleys nestled in the Garhwal Himalayas of Uttarakhand. Aptly named after the “Valley of Gods” in the local Pahadi dialect, this trek winds its way through remote villages perched amidst towering mountain peaks. From the moment you set foot on the trail, the melodious symphony of the Supin River and its many tributaries accompany you like a faithful companion echoing through the valleys until the day of summit. As you ascend to greater heights, be prepared to be spellbound by the awe-inspiring vistas of majestic peaks like Swargarohini, Kala Naag (Black Peak), and Bandarpoonch, each unveiling a spectacle of nature’s grandeur. Let’s embark on this unforgettable journey, where every step reveals a new chapter in the breathtaking tale of the Himalayas.

(Evenings at Sankri)

The Route Unveiled:

The journey begins at the quaint village of Sankri, serving as the base camp for the Har ki Doon trek. From here, a scenic drive leads you to Taluka village, where the actual hike commences.

Day 1 introduces you to a mix of easy and tough climbs through lush forests alongside the rushing Supin river. Follow the clear path past charming mountain hamlets until you reach your resting spot for the night at Chirulgad, after walking about 10 kilometers. On the way you cross several big and small water streams. The weather becomes pleasant once the sun goes down. The coolness in the weather wraps you up as you settle down at the campsite.

(Drive from Sankri to Taluka)

(Day 1: Campsite right before Chirulgad)

(Walking along Supin river)

On Day 2, the journey to Kalkattidhar covers 11 kilometers with both gentle climbs and occasionally steep hikes. You’ll cross the Supin River, stroll through pretty meadows, and catch sight of snowy peaks and a distant waterfall. There are multiple small tea points on the way, where you can rest and refresh. The campsite at Kalkattidhar offers a breathtaking backdrop of towering mountains.

(The Seema bridge)

(View of peaks just before the campsite)

Day 3 is the big day, as you head towards Har ki Doon and back, passing serene streams and stunning valleys- some covered in glaciers and tall waterfalls cutting through rocky mountain walls. The sight of the Doon and Swargarohini peaks is truly breathtaking. If you’re up for it, you can elevate your adventure by hiking up another 2000 feet to Marinda Tal, a beautiful blue glacial lake with incredible views. The whole trip is around 12 kilometers, and when you return to camp, you’ll feel refreshed and rejuvenated.

On Day 4, your journey continues with a descent towards Chirulgad, this time opting for a new path. Along the way, you’ll pass through Osla village, providing a delightful introduction to the local Pahadi culture. Witness the tranquil simplicity of their lives, steeped in contentment, and listen to captivating folklore tales. Osla is also home to an ancient temple devoted to Lord Shiva. Here, observe women skillfully weaving shawls while men tend to their grazing sheep. As evening falls, you’ll set up camp for the final night of your trekking adventure.

Finally, on Day 5, it’s time to head back to Taluka along the familiar path. Descending can be tough, especially if it’s hot, but by late afternoon, you’ll reach Taluka, completing your incredible journey through the stunning landscapes of the Har ki Doon trek..

Embracing Pahadi Culture

Har ki Doon holds profound significance in local lore. Legend has it that the Pandavas traversed this very path towards Swargarohini, marking their celestial journey. While whispers suggest a temple dedicated to Duryodhan in Osla, locals refute such claims, affirming its allegiance to Lord Shiva. Cultural festivities are organised annually around this ancient Shiva temple, orchestrated by neighboring villages.
Pahadi hospitality is renowned for its warmth. Crossing villages along the trek, you’ll encounter friendly faces and everlasting smiles. While trek organizers oversee meal arrangements in camps, opting for homestays offers a taste of authentic Pahadi cuisine. Indeed, Har ki Doon extends the unique option of homestays instead of traditional tent camping.
Indulge in local delicacies like Lingdi, a wild vegetable, Rhododendron sherbat during the hot daytime hikes and Lugdi, a fermented rice beverage enjoyed recreationally. Don’t miss the chance to savor these cultural delights amidst the breathtaking beauty of the Himalayas.

How to plan you trek:

Planning your Har ki Doon trek is easy with various trekking organizations offering their services. Simply book your trek through one of these organizers for a hassle-free experience, as they handle everything from forest permits to food, accommodation, and porters.
If you prefer to trek independently, upon reaching Sankri, you’ll need to hire a local guide. Sankri serves as the base village for several other treks, including Kedarkantha, Rupin Pass, and Black Peak.
In Sankri, you’ll find numerous homestays, lodges, and hostel options to suit your accommodation preferences.

What to carry

Prepare your trekking essentials according to the season you’ll be embarking on. However, certain basics are essential regardless of the time of year. Refer to the guide below:
Your Complete Guide to Packing for Adventure

If trekking with organizers, tents and sleeping bags are typically provided. For solo trekkers, these must be carried along. Additionally, trekking gear can be rented affordably in Sankri.

Seasonal Considerations

Har ki Doon offers trekking opportunities throughout the year, barring the monsoon season when heavy rainfall and landslides impede access. The optimal trekking windows are from March to June and mid-September to December.
Mountain rains are notoriously unpredictable, typically occurring in the afternoon. Therefore, it’s essential to pack waterproof covers for both your bag and yourself to ensure a dry and comfortable trekking experience.

Exploring more

In Sankri, you can amp up the adventure with a thrilling zipline activity. If you’re craving even more excitement and have the luxury of extra time off, consider embarking on other treks that kick off from Sankri.

Reflecting on Har ki Doon

Amidst lockdown frustrations and pandemic fatigue, seeking solace in nature led us to the rejuvenating embrace of Har ki Doon. Undoubtedly, it was a decision we cherish. They say it’s the people, not just the place, that make a journey memorable. Blessed with the company of kindred spirits, our evenings at the campsite were a delightful blend of camaraderie and conversation, fueled by chai and snacks.

Strolling amidst nature, we exchanged stories and insights, mingling with local shepherds who shared intriguing tales of encounters with Bhoota (ghosts). Our trek guide offered glimpses into Pahadi life, enriching our journey with cultural nuances. As our adventure drew to a close in Sankri, we celebrated with laughter and Lugdi, savoring the bonds forged on the trail. While the joys of our trek overshadowed the discomfort, it’s essential to acknowledge the ecological challenges. Opting for a summer trek to escape Mumbai’s sweltering heat, we underestimated the impact of climate change on the mountain ecosystem. Enduring a scorching heatwave during our travels to and from Dehradun made for a challenging journey. The intense sun made the first and last day’s hikes particularly demanding. Sunscreen became our ally, a necessary shield against the harsh sunlight. Reflecting on our experience, it’s crucial to consider these factors when planning your own trekking adventure.