Riding in North Madhya Pradesh: A Motorcycle Adventure to Gwalior and Chanderi

When November brings that cool breeze, it’s like a signal for us to gear up and hit the road. Winter is the perfect time to ride, especially in central, eastern, and southern India. The days are warm, and the nights? They’re just chilly enough to make it all feel like an adventure. So, with the weather on our side, we decided to hop on our motorcycle and explore the northern region of Madhya Pradesh.
Our plan? Simple yet thrilling. We aimed to reach Gwalior, making stops in Indore on the way there and back. We’d explore the areas around Gwalior before heading to Chanderi and then back home.
Although it might seem like we only visited two cities, we covered around 2500 kilometers in 10 exciting days! Along the way, we’d be diving deep into India’s rich history, visiting places that played significant roles in shaping the nation. The thought of riding through history had us buzzing with excitement, and we couldn’t wait to soak up every moment of it.
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A Day-by-Day Plan for Gwalior and Chanderi Motorcycle Adventure

A Day-by-Day Plan for Gwalior and Chanderi Motorcycle Adventure

Day 1: The journey begins from Mumbai to Indore – 570 kms in 13 hours

Although we planned to leave at 5:30 am, last-minute packing and a lack of sleep delayed our start until 7 am.

After passing through Igatpuri, we left the hilly terrain of Maharashtra behind and entered the plains. The only two other hilly regions we encountered were the one near Chandwad and another one in Sendhwa, Madhya Pradesh. Throughout the rest of our journey, we were surrounded by vast stretches of cotton, bajra, corn, and wheat fields on either side of the road.

The landscape turned barren as we moved closer to Dhule with the only green patch we witnessed when we crossed Tapi, the first mighty river of this trip.
By midday, we stopped near Dhule for a delicious lunch of local specialties like Shevgyachya Shenga chi bhaaji (Spicy gravy cooked with drumsticks) and Khapar Manda (a Khandeshi dessert who is Puran Poli’s cousin).
The next exciting moment was crossing the mighty Narmada river which indicated we were now coming closer to our first stop.

(Narmada river crossing)

Thanks to well-placed refreshment stops created by MP tourism, we could conveniently take breaks along the way. As evening approached, we layered up for the colder weather and finally reached our hotel in Indore by 7:30 pm, albeit to our disappointment, it turned out to be less than ideal. Nonetheless, it was just for one night, so we decided to make the most of it and rested for the night.
Day 2: Gwalior Bound – 460km Ride in 11 Hours

We were eager to leave the dismal lodging of the previous night and set out early to reach Gwalior before dusk. The journey was shrouded in fog and the cold of central India’s winter seeped into our bones. As newcomers to such cold climates, the experience was both exhilarating and, truth be told, a bit chilly.

During a brief stop in Dewas, we had the chance to sample MP’s famous Poha, Kachori and Jalebi, which provided the perfect boost for the chilly ride ahead.
(Breakfast at Mukesh Sweet’s & Namkeen, Dewas)

Unexpected rainfall slowed our progress, but thankfully, we remained mostly dry, save for a few splashes from passing vehicles. By noon, we found ourselves in Guna, where we enjoyed a hearty meal under gloomy weather skies. The remainder of the journey was smooth, as the well-maintained and wide highways guided us effortlessly between cities.

 

Despite the dense fog limiting our view, we caught glimpses of lush green fields lining the route, which were a testament to the region’s agricultural abundance. We arrived in Gwalior at 5:30 PM and settled into our homestay in Naya Bazaar, ready to unwind and recharge for the adventures that lay ahead.

(Silky smooth straight highway connecting Indore to Gwalior)
Day 3: Discovering Gwalior’s Rich History
In the chill of January, amidst intermittent rain, our journey to uncover Gwalior’s historical treasures commenced. Despite the single-digit temperatures and persistent showers, we embraced the day with enthusiasm, eager to delve into the city’s past.
Delayed by the rainy weather, our exploration began late morning. Undeterred, we ventured to iconic landmarks such as the imposing Gwalior Fort, the intricate Saas Bahu Temple, and the ancient Teli ka Mandir. Each site offered a glimpse into the city’s storied heritage, with echoes of bygone eras lingering in the mist.

(Saas Bahu [Sahastrabahu] temple)

(Teli ka Mandir)

Despite the challenges posed by the weather, our day was filled with awe and wonder. Though our exploration was curtailed by the elements, we departed with a sense of anticipation, eager to uncover more of Gwalior’s hidden gems.
(Tomb of Mohammad Ghaus & Tansen)
Day 4: Exploring Morena’s Ancient Marvels
Located about 44 kilometers northwest of Gwalior, Morena district is situated in the famous Chambal valley. Once notorious for the presence of dacoits until 2005, the district now boasts a treasure trove of historical wonders waiting to be explored. We embarked on a full-day journey to uncover the secrets of the ancient temples of Kakanmath, Padavali, Mitavali, and Bateshwar.

(Kakanmath temple)

(Ekattarso Mahadev Chausath Yogini temple, Mitavali)

(Garhi Padavali)

(Bateshwar Group of temples)

As we rode through quaint villages and expansive fields, we were captivated by the timeless beauty of the countryside. Despite encountering some rough paths, our trusty adventure bike effortlessly maneuvered through the off-road trails, allowing us to glide along comfortably.
Our exploration of Morena left us spellbound as we marvelled at the intricate architecture and rich history of these ancient sites. It was a day full of adventure and discovery.
Day 5: Unexpected Rest and Local Explorations
A cold wave thwarted our plans to explore Datia, prompting an impromptu rest day in Gwalior. Despite the change of plans, we made the most of our time, leisurely exploring the city’s treasures. From the opulent Moti Mahal to the grandeur of Jai Vilas Palace, each stop offered a glimpse into Gwalior’s rich history.

(Moti Mahal)

(Jai Vilas Palace)

We were amazed by the elaborate Jain rock-cut sculptures near the Urvai gate of Gwalior Fort. We had intended to visit similar structures at Gopachal Parvat as well, but unfortunately, the place is only open at specific hours and we missed it.
My favourite moment was spent quietly observing life at Baijatal, where I witnessed everyday scenes unfold against the backdrop of the perfect mid-afternoon weather. From a pre-wedding photoshoot to a father-daughter playdate, it was a serene moment of watching time pass by, soaking in the essence of Gwalior’s charm.
Also read: Discovering Gwalior: A Perfect 3-Day Itinerary
Day 6: Whizzing to Chanderi – 210 kms in 4 hrs
Our journey began with a satisfying breakfast in Gwalior as we set out for Chanderi, a historic town located about 200 kilometers south of Gwalior. While en route, we passed through Datia and got a glimpse of the Veer Singh Deo Palace, a place we earmarked for our next visit. The path to Chanderi took us closer to the Uttar Pradesh border, where we traversed through scenic villages and countryside.

Despite the shorter distance, our progress was impeded by frequent speed breakers, requiring us to navigate through village roads filled with unexpected obstacles such as cattle and playful children. These encounters offered us an authentic glimpse into rural life, enriching our journey with genuine experiences.

 

Upon arrival in Chanderi in the afternoon, we checked into our accommodation, enjoyed a leisurely lunch, and set out to explore the town’s iconic landmarks including the Kati Ghati gate and Jain rock-cut structures.

(Kati Ghati)

(Khandagiri Jain Cave Temple)

We concluded our day with a captivating light and sound show at Chanderi Fort, organized by the Madhya Pradesh Tourism Department, providing us with a delightful ending to our day. .
Day 7: Delving into Chanderi’s Historical Marvels
Today was an exhilarating adventure as we embarked on a sightseeing marathon in Chanderi. This charming town is brimming with historical wonders, from ancient temples and intricately carved tombs to majestic mosques, palaces, and memorials.

(Graveyard of Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya ‘s Khalifa)

(Raja Rani Mahal)

(One of the old temples of Chanderi)

Our journey began at the majestic Chanderi Fort, nestled atop a hill, and from there, we explored every nook and cranny of the town and its surroundings.

(Chanderi fort)

(Jama Masjid)

(Badal Mahal)

(Bada Madrasa)

(Shehzadi ka Roza)

Despite feeling weary and a bit worn out from our extensive exploration, the day was filled with excitement and awe. As the sun began to set, we made our way back to our hotel, reminiscing about the incredible sights and experiences we encountered throughout the day.

(Lakshman ka Mandir, Parmeshwar Talab)

(Peaceful evening at Ram Nagar Mahal)

Day 8: Off the Beaten Path – Kadwaya Half-Day Adventure
After conducting extensive research on Chanderi, I stumbled upon a blog post about Kadwaya, a village located about 50 kilometers northwest of Chanderi.

(Koshak Mahal, en-route Kadwaya)

This village boasts some of the most beautiful ancient temples and a Hindu monastery, yet it remains largely undiscovered by tourists.

(Kadwaya Group of temples)

(Hindu monastery, Kadwaya)

During our visit, we were the only tourists at all the sites, allowing us to enjoy the place without the usual crowds.

(Toteshwar Mahadev Mandir)

The ride to Kadwaya was breathtaking, passing through endless bright yellow mustard fields, crossing small, beautiful rural houses, and smiling at curious faces.
After exploring the temples, we decided to take another scenic route to return to Chanderi.
However, as is often the case with Google Maps, the route involved some serious off-roading. Despite not actively seeking out off-road paths, we found ourselves on one.

(Kadwaya-Chanderi via Bamore road)

Nonetheless, we made it back to Chanderi by lunchtime and spent the rest of the afternoon shopping for the famous Chanderi saree.

 

In the evening, we rode to Rajghat dam and spent some quiet peaceful moments.

We realized that we had ridden so far away from home, all the way up to the Uttar Pradesh border, and couldn’t help feeling proud and grateful that our adventures had taken us so far.
Day 9: Beginning the Return: Riding to Indore – 390 kms in 8 hrs

After thoroughly exploring Gwalior and Chanderi, it was time to start our journey back. With the direct route from Chanderi to our home totalling 950 kms, we decided to break our journey in Indore for the night.

 

The road from Chanderi to Guna led us through picturesque rural landscapes, and from Guna, we followed the same highway we took from Indore to Gwalior.

 

Arriving in Indore by 5 pm, we freshened up and headed to Safara Bazaar for dinner, a customary visit for us.

(Rajwada, Indore)

After dinner, we packed up, ready for the final leg of our journey the next day.
Day 10: Heading Home

We started our journey back home from Indore at 7 am and made a quick stop for breakfast in Rau. From there on, we continued our trip to Mumbai with minimal breaks. We had an amazing lunch at a local Maharashtrian restaurant just after Dhule.

(Sai Car Family Dhaba, Devarpada)

Since we took very few breaks, by the time we reached Igatpuri, exhaustion had set in.

(Tattered & battered by continuous riding)

Despite that, we were able to reach home in just 12 hours, which is commendable given that we travelled almost 500 kms that day. It was a perfect end to an amazing road trip.
Essential Tips and Insider Secrets for Your Journey
  • Packing efficiently is key, especially during winter rides when extra layers are necessary. Opt for fewer base layers and prioritize warm clothing to avoid overpacking
  • Stay updated on weather forecasts to prepare for heatwaves or cold snaps, which can make motorcycle riding challenging and tiring
  • Start your journeys early to reach destinations before dark, particularly in winter when daylight hours are shorter. This ensures a safe arrival, especially when exploring unfamiliar areas
  • Exploring on foot offers a deeper connection to the culture and allows for closer interactions with locals. Plus, it’s a great way to stay active while indulging in local cuisine
  • For breakfast, indulge in regional delights like Poha, Jalebi, and Kachori from local eateries for an authentic culinary experience
  • Experience the warm hospitality of Madhya Pradesh, where locals are friendly, helpful, and welcoming to travellers
  • On the journey back from Chanderi to Indore, consider stopping for lunch in Pachore, as options for dining become scarce afterward
  • Extend your itinerary to include Shivpuri or Datia, both boasting stunning historical monuments worth dedicating a full day to explore
Recounting the Adventures in the Rearview
As I travelled on the road, I found a lot of entertainment. From the beautiful scenery to the funny and witty slogans on the trucks and tempos, the journey showed me a part of my country that is largely agrarian.
Even though the urban population might be advanced, we passed through some villages that are still living a very humble life.

The fields that we crossed, which were ready for harvest, looked so soothing to the eyes.

 

Being a history enthusiast, immersing myself in the many stories, architecture, and culture widened my knowledge about the country’s past. It offered new insights into India’s rulers that I had never considered before, while also instilling a sense of pride in our heritage Although we missed Datia on this trip, it will make for a story for another time when I explore another part of Madhya Pradesh.

 

As we finally arrived home, we couldn’t help but reflect on the incredible experiences of our road trip, concluding our adventure with a sense of satisfaction and contentment.

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